The Paris Postcard: Mid-September in Paris

le 18 septembre 2026

Bonjour mes chers amis. Your Paris Postcard is here, bringing you the latest happenings in the City of Light.

There’s a particular energy in the air this time of year—the city feels refreshed, vibrant and ready for a new season.

Mid-September is when Paris comes alive. Cooler days prevail and the calendar is filled with exhibitions, cultural events and everything that makes Paris such a wonderful place to be in the fall. This weekend is a perfect example. There’s so much to see and do, so let’s jump in.

Journées Européennes du Patrimoine

The Journées Européennes du Patrimoine, or European Heritage Days, starts tomorrow. This special weekend offers a rare opportunity to step inside places normally closed to the public, from museums, monuments and government buildings to workshops and some wonderfully unexpected locations, many offering special tours and programs.

One of the more intriguing openings this year will be the Cartier Jewelry Institute, giving the public a rare behind-the-scenes look at the craftsmanship and savoir-faire behind one of France’s most celebrated jewelry houses. This particular visit would be at the top of my list. It’s the sort of hidden Paris I love discovering.

Heritage Days coincide with the reopening of the Cité du Cinéma in Saint-Denis. The former film-studio complex is celebrating its opening on September 19–20 with screenings, performances, exhibitions, workshops, stunt demonstrations and tours. Admission is free, but reservations are required for some activities.

A New Season of Art

For modern art lovers, Kerry James Marshall: The Histories opens today at the Musée d’Art Moderne de Paris. The exhibition will bring together 70 works spanning more than four decades, including eight paintings created especially for the exhibition.

At the Petit Palais, Eva Gonzalès is also part of the new fall exhibition season. The exhibition opened September 15 and will remain on view through January 24, 2027, offering a closer look at the work of the French painter associated with the Impressionists and a student of Édouard Manet.

And then there is Fine Arts Paris, formerly known as FAB Paris, which takes over the Grand Palais from September 19–23. Nearly 100 French and international galleries will present works from antiquity to contemporary art. For anyone who loves art, antiques, and simply wandering beneath the magnificent glass roof of the Grand Palais, this is a particularly tempting way to spend an afternoon.

Paris Without Cars

Sunday marks another car-free day in Paris. It looks like the weather will cooperate with temperatures around 75 degrees and no rain in the forecast—perfect weather for Paris Respire. This is a great day to take advantage of streets that feel completely different without traffic. Rent a Vélib’ and bike along the Seine, walk the Champs-Élysées without the usual roar of cars, or cross the city on foot and enjoy the freedom of having so much more space. It is a wonderful day to see familiar places from a completely different perspective.

MES COUPS de CŒUR

Small ways to transition your wardrobe to fall, with little updates that bring a fresh feel to what you already own—the pleasures, discoveries, and little luxuries I’m loving right now.

Some links are affiliate links, which means I may earn a small commission at no additional cost to you.

#ICYMI

If you missed my latest post, Five Major Exhibitions to See in Paris This Fall, I’ve rounded up five exhibitions worth putting on your Paris itinerary. From Impressionist-era art to major contemporary exhibitions, there is plenty to see in the months ahead—and now is a good time to start planning.

For a bit of nostalgia, check out my March 2009 post: Henry IV: My Favorite French King. It’s a fun reminder of just how long I’ve been writing about France—and how some of my favorite subjects never really go out of style.

This is September in Paris – a season I love.