The weather has changed. Gray skies, wind and late afternoon showers occurred yesterday. The forecast indicates the same sort of weather for the remainder of this week. On the bright side, I will make the most of it with plenty of museum visits.

Years ago, my friend Michael recommended the best chocolate shop in Paris: Debauve & Gallais. He was absolutely right. Every chocolate I’ve tasted from this maison is rich, perfectly balanced, and utterly memorable. While they are a splurge, the high cocoa content makes every bite worth it. Nestled on the…

During the annual Fêtes des Jardins, when parks and gardens across Paris open their gates for concerts, guided tours, and special events, I returned to one of my favorite hidden corners of the city: the Le Parc and Château de Bagatelle. On my first visit, the château itself was closed,…

It’s beginning to feel a bit like fall in Paris. The days are still warm and sunny, but the leaves are changing color, and chestnuts are beginning to fall to the ground. During a recent visit to the Jardin du Luxembourg, I watched children scampering beneath the trees like little…

I had read that the Petit Trianon and its furnishings had been fully restored thanks to generous support from the watchmaker Breguet, so I made my way out to Versailles to see Marie-Antoinette’s country retreat for myself. What I didn’t expect was to arrive right in the middle of something…